By Gillian Cumming, escape

Fiji is on our doorstep 330 islands strewn over 250,000sq km of sapphire-hued South Pacific.
It morphs from jungle in the wetter north, to palm-fringed paradise in the Mamanuca outcrops off Viti Levu in the south.

And the Fijians. So welcoming.

Image: Tokoriki Island Resort in the Mamanucas. Picture: Supplied

In fact, the welcome song, sung wherever you go, is an upbeat start to any holiday. But when you leave, expect the soulful tones of the Fijian farewell in our case, at Tadrai Island Resort, sung in falsetto by a 21-year-old gentle giant named Seru.

Tadrai Island Resort (pronounced "Tandrai" and meaning "the dream") is a new getaway. On the northern side of Mana Island in the Mamanucas, the slick design and interiors speak understated, refined class.

There are five beachfront bures (plunge pool, palatial outdoor bathroom, the latest mod-cons) and three beaches, and it's all strictly for couples.

An option is to transfer from Nadi Airport in a 10-minute chopper ride.

There is a staff-to-guest ratio of two to one; meals are prepared by Tetsuya-trained chef Chad Arthur at the Na Vatu restaurant; spa services, fishing trips and water sports are available.

A short trek with Seru to the island's "mountain minus the metreage" reveals an ideal vantage point to see the turquoise waters swirl around coral reefs and sand bars. Later, a full-body massage.

Seru takes us snorkelling the next day. We swim over a coral shelf into an abyss, where we spy rainbow-coloured parrot fish and large fluorescent blue starfish.

In the late afternoon, Seru demonstrates the art of husking a coconut, which he does with little effort and at startling speed. Tap, tap, tap with his long, sharp, timber wedge, and the coconut cracks in two.

Our next stop is at the adults-only Qamea Resort and Spa. Across from the garden island of Taveuni in Fiji's north, considered off the beaten track, Qamea (pronounced Gamea) comprises 17 beachfront bures set in 40ha of gardens with jungle-covered hills as a backdrop.

We arrive on a Friday. It's Meke night, a heart-lifting experience where traditionally dressed villagers pass their history from one generation to the next through song and dance.

Things move at a fairly relaxed pace here. Island time. Organised morning activities include a pearl farm tour, mountain hike on Taveuni to Bouma Waterfalls, Lavena coastal walk, basket weaving, cooking class and church service.

Afternoons are free for guests to snorkel, sail, visit the spa or talk to the staff marine biologist about this soft-coral mecca.

I attended the Sunday service back on Taveuni Island at Vatusogosogo village. Here, the tides of change are indiscernible in the exquisite setting, which magnifies the isolation. The church overlooks the bay. Parishioners, who sat cross-legged on the floor, welcomed the resort's visitors. We, too, sat cross-legged.

In the evenings at the resort, guests tend to gather for a pre-dinner drink in the Chief's House, the dining bure. Qamea's cuisine makes the most of the island's organic fruit and vegetables in traditional Fijian dishes that emphasise local fish catches, as well as Western alternatives that favour an American diet.

And the resort has a jungle spa.

Back to the Mamanucas, where our next destination is this most northern island's 4 1/2-star, adults-only Tokoriki Island Resort. Its 34 bures have a westerly aspect, which makes for striking sunsets. Fringed by a barrier reef, a lagoon rings most of the island.

Tokoriki operates a giant clam regeneration project and its water pursuits include reef snorkelling, wreck diving, kayaking and fishing. Trips off the island can take you to a traditional village or somewhere like Monuriki, the uninhabited island used for the Tom Hanks film Cast Away.

The new spa is part of the Senikai chain and treatments include a yava spa pedicure and exfoliating papaya body wrap rejuvenation that left my skin as smooth as a babe's.

The writer was a guest of Qamea Resort and Spa, Tadrai Island Resort and Tokoriki Island Resort.

FIJI

Getting there

Virgin Australia, Air Pacific and Qantas fly direct from Sydney to Nadi.

Getting around

Island hopping: For helicopter island transfers and scenic flights, see helicopters.com.fj  

Transfers: See rosieholidays.com.au  

Cruises: South Sea Cruises offers day cruise and island resort connections throughout Fiji's Mamanuca and Yasawa islands, from high-speed catamaran to classic sailing schooner, plus tailored trips, see ssc.com.fj

Staying there

Qamea Resort and Spa, see qamea.com

Tokoriki Island Resort, see tokoriki.com

Tadrai Island Resort, see tadrai.com

Have you stayed in Fiji? Would you recommend it to others as an ideal holiday destination?